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Decided to try iTelescope.net out and this the initial result.
I did have troubles that’s weren’t clear from the messages. like Not having access after paying for a plan. come to find out if you don’t complete your member details (address for example) you can not image.
Also, I did this in LRGB (not really a good choice for LRGB though as a test) but during the Blue pass the auto-guider had trouble and ruined the image. Fortunately, the refund system is quite easy and got that refunded and will retry the exposure.
Below is the L image which is a stack of 2 600sec exposures
Below the image is the equipment information
I have to say, I don’t find this as satisfying as using my own equipment
OTA: Takahashi FSQ Fluorite
Optical Design: Petzval Apochromat Astrograph
Aperture: 106mm (0.1 metre)
Focal Length: 530mm (.53 metre)
Mount: Paramount GT-1100S
CCD: SBIG STL-11000M
QE: 50% Peak
Full Well: ~50,000e- Anti Blooming Gate (ABG)
Dark Current: 0.5 e-/pixel/sec. @ 0º C
A/D Gain: 2.2e-/ADU
Pixel Size: 9um Square
Resolution: 3.5 arc-secs/pixel
Cooling: Set to -15ºC default
Array: 4008 by 2672 (10.7 Mega pixels)
FOV: 155.8 x 233.7 arc-mins
Filters: LRGB, Ha, SII & OIII and V
Position Angle: 090º
This time I designed up a holder for my Microtouch Focus Controller. This was the First Draft of the holder. The second draft has better corner support and slots to allow a strap to be used to secure the controller in place. While I designed it for a snug fit I image as it heats and cools it could come loose. I’ll attach a rendering of the new version shortly. my 3D printer is having it’s extrusion head cleaned up and tuned up so I’m not printing at the moment. BTW: it took 14 hours to print this one.
For the curious, the white PCV tube is my home made Daytime alignment tube. Pin hole plate in front and a white Plexiglas in back to project the sun. Made it really quick since I had to re-align the mount coarsely after removing it from the pier
As I mentioned in my previous post I am re-working my thru mount cabling.
I am running a SBIG power cable thru for the STL11000M, a USB and USB Power for a Hub to be mounted on the versa-plate and possibly a power cable for an older SX7C camera.
I have designed the plate in Autodesk Inventor and printing my test one to check how it fits and it’s pretty darn close.
Here is the test fitting
A quick view from the side.
For extra “Anti-Mouse” enforcement. I added some steel wool as packing. Though I”m not sure of what if any electrical interference it might cause (or prevent).
The larger disc is a copy of the actual back on the mount (for testing in the house) and is not part of the real part but I left it because my screws are to long and needed the extra length to attach it properly. I will probably post to thingverse when it’s finished. for anyone to print. I plan on painting it black to match the Paramount when finished.
This time I’ve been dealing with what I though was frost heave but turned out to be expansive clay.
My first sign I noticed was how raised my observatory was as seen here. But also you can see the pier foundation raised so I took a closer look
Here you can clearly see the foundation of the pier lifted as well as the footing of the building itself. This is not good
I using the trust level I removed the mount and checked and it has up to a 1.4 degree tilt now
But even more the entire pier is raised 3″ that white cover over the concrete used to just touch the floor
So I monitored the pier for shifting over a period of a month and contacted a foundation repair company to check out the situtuaion and they said yes it was expansive clay and it had raised and titled it. Expansive clay was common in my area (if I had known that I would have prepared the ground differently) The quoted roughly 3600 to stabilize the pier by driving two piers down to bed rock but they would tear up the observatory flooring and it would be up to me to replace it. Not having 3600 plus floor repairs I had a pass.
I posted on the bisque forum and got some good replies including this is not all that uncommon.
So first step was the re-level the pier which I did as seen here
The slight off center bubble is due to camera angle, it is dead on center bubble.
I then monitored that for a while and there have been minor shifts due to wet/dry times.
Based on that feedback what I will need to do is a full t-point calibration run (the more points the better). after than a normal calibration will account for any further changes to the level of the pier. Good news.
My next task is to redo my thru mount cabling which includes a 3D printed cover for the exit point of the cables to prevent another mouse attack on my Paramount.
So to be continued…
So I wanted to do something so first of all
My weather computer died so i’ve not had an weather updates since October I do plan to fix that.
After that I had back surgery in October so I’ve not been out at all until recently and that was to show my observatory to a friend and made a massive error. I did not close the roof all the way and it rained. no damage to equipment but floor was soaked as well as the rear wall. Thankfully it wasn’t worse.
After things are dry (and should be by now) i want to finish the interior and paint it and get back outside (weather permitting)
Also a note, I do use anti-spam software and if your comments get caught as spam by It I do not review them. I delete them. the amount of posts is surprising but virtually all are spam so no sense in taking a closer look.
I’m going to go back out again tonight I hope and try again.
Tried to polar align my mount finally and just had issue’s
I’m going to go back out again tonight I hope and try again.
after homing the mount I slewed to Rigel and it was nowhere near where the scope was pointing, it was in the right part of the sky but was many degrees off, this seemed strange, I check my Lat/Long and date/time all where good. went into the TCS control panel and reset all the mount settings and still no good. after several hours and loosing all feeling in my fingertips I gave up for the night and fired up the SBIG ST-i (which I got as a guide camera) and took this shoot. nothing special but at least the camera worked
10 Light Frames @ 90s each and dark subtracted
I had multiple problems with my observatory since my last post
first I had my mount taken over by mice who proceeded to eat through cables, pooh all over the bearings and build nests inside the mount. after over 1K in repair cost. (could have been over 3K but due to Bisques customer service it cost me 1K instead)
I got the mount back in place and found all three of my power systems failed
- electrical failed from the house
- solar failed, inverter blew, which also took the charge controller with it, replaced and then the battery was bad. replaced then the new charge controller kept tripping breakers.
- backup generator would not run consistently
got everything fixed within the last few weeks and all three power sources are again working
solar though is only working with 1 panel instead of 2
got 240v@60amp going to the Observatory now
warm room is actually warm and things are starting to come back online for me
Got the PC and network back up and going. used powerline adapters for network then put an access point in the observatory for wireless out there.
Updated all software
Clouds though tonight prevented any real work outside
Spent some time tonight capturing more images of M45 including some basic color as seen here
All Images were done through the AT10RC with the STL-11000M2 Camera. Images are Binned 2×2
First up is a redo of M45 – The Pleiades This is 6 x 360 second exposers @ -20c + 1 x 360 for Red, Green & Blue Stacked and Aligned in MaximDL then touched up In Photoshope CS 4
Next is a redo of M37, again more exposer time but no color on this one This is 5 x 360 second exposers @ -20c. Stacked and Aligned in MaximDL then touched up In Photoshope CS 4
Finally Here is something new M33 – “The Triangulum Galaxy” This is 6 x 180 second exposers @ -20c. Stacked and Aligned in MaximDL then touched up In Photoshope CS 4
See the Full Images HERE